CANTABRIAN CULTURE

The highlight of the Christchurch wine calendar each year is the Negociants Fine Wine Tour at the Christchurch Town Hall. Negociants is one of New Zealand’s finest wine distributors, providing wines of pedigree and provenance to the people on the front line at great restaurants, hotels and bars across the land. The FWT is a presentation for both trade and the public of a group of prestigious, independently owned brands from across Australasia.  As Dean McHenry, GM from Negociants puts it “It’s an incredible opportunity to taste across the enviable range from our range from New Zealand and Australian agencies. A wonderful chance to meet the winemakers and people behind the brands and to understand the heritage and hear the stories that contributed to just making them what they are today.”

The great part of this is anyone can purchase a ticket and attend. The trade associates get an invitation to an industry event in the afternoon to purvey the crème of Negociants wine brands from Jim Barry in the Clare Valley, Australia to Pyramid Valley in North Canterbury. The public have the opportunity to purchase tickets to an evening event that same day.  There is a style and taste for every palate. I’ve just returned from Rhone and Reims in France, so I was keen to dip back into the juicy reds that New Zealand and Australia are renowned for.

I caught up with Misha Wilkinson from Misha’s Vineyard nestled alongside Lake Dunstan in Bendigo, Central Otago. An incredible woman who is inspirational in the industry I asked her what she thought about the Negociants Fine Wine Tour.

“We have been part of the Negociants New Zealand Fine Wine Tour for the past 14 years – the whole time we have had our wines represented by a company regarded as New Zealand’s top wine distributor. The Fine Wine Tour, which is held in the July/August timeframe each year, generally takes in 3 or 4 cities in the tour. It offers afternoon sessions for the hospitality trade and also the opportunity for the general public to attend in the evening and taste a selection of wines from some of the top New Zealand and Australia wine producers.

In addition to these trade and public tastings, there are always Masterclasses during the afternoon so that there’s an opportunity to drill down on a wine topic of interest and where the trade can learn a little more about the specifics of wine directly from winemakers and vineyard owners.

We are incredibly fortunate to be on the Negociants New Zealand portfolio, and to be able to participate in this tour each year. It always feels like we’re meeting up with family when we all go ono tour around the country for a week. We work hard during the week with all the tastings and travel, but we also have a lot of fun in the evening. But I can’t tell you more – what happens on tour, stays on tour!”

She hit it on the head when it comes to the Masterclass. Getting a chair is a privilege as everyone is clamoring to hear the stories. This year’s theme was “Favourite wine of the last decade.”  6 exquisite vineyards and their representatives with their choice to present. Palliser Estate Single Vinyard, “Hua Nui” Pinot Noir 2021. Yalumba Tri-Centenary, Grenache 2022. d’Arenberg The Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. Langmeil Blacksmith, Cabernet Sauvignon 2017. Pyramid Valley, Lions Tooth Chardonnay 2022 and of course Misha’s Vineyard “The Starlet” Sauvignon Blanc 2014.

All of these are stunning and a real treat and all of them have a great background from a charismatic group of wine aficionados. I asked Misha why she chose the Starlet.

“I chose to present a 10-year-old example of our Misha’s Vineyard ‘The Starlet’ Sauvignon Blanc at a wine masterclass at the recent Negociants New Zealand Fine Wine tour.  Is it my favourite wine of the past 10 years? Well, that’s like asking which of my children is my favourite and of course any parent would tell you all their children are wonderful and that they don’t have favorites! 

I chose Sauvignon Blanc as it’s not a variety that’s generally associated with the Central Otago region where over 80% of the grapes planted are Pinot Noir – which is really the only red variety that thrives in this region. The most planted white variety in Central Otago is Pinot Gris, and then Chardonnay, and Riesling. So why did I pick a variety that has just 37 hectares planted in the region versus the Marlborough winegrowing region where this variety accounts for more than 22,000 hectares planted? 

For our winemaker, Olly Masters, when he first joined Misha’s Vineyard for our inaugural vintage, it was the Sauvignon Blanc he was most worried about. Given New Zealand has set a global benchmark for this variety for the Marlborough style with its signature vibrancy and pungency, he wondered how we could produce a style from our two hectares of Sauvignon Blanc. It is planted on the steepest slope on our 57-hectare vineyard site – a block we call Ski Slope! The block has rocky poor soils, so the vines produce just a small crop but with the block facing the afternoon sun, they get great ripeness and intensity of flavor.

We decided it was important to be true to the specifics of our site, so our approach has been to let between 40 – 50% of the grapes ferment naturally (or spontaneously) during the winemaking process, so that the yeasts that exist naturally on the grapes begin that fermentation process and we do this in old French oak barrels. The rest of the fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks to preserve a element of the natural freshness and fruitiness that Sauvignon Blanc is known for. Then the blending of the wild ferment portion with the wine in tank enables us to produce a wine that has richness and texture. It is quite a different expression from what people may think of with Sauvignon Blanc – and the first aromas from the finished wine tell you it’s definitely not from Marlborough!

And so to really make the point that Misha’s Vineyard produces a different style, we decided to present a 10 year old example of this wine, as it’s a variety that is not known for its ability to age well, so the differences with this wine really become apparent.  So, we presented a 2014 vintage of Misha’s Vineyard ‘The Starlet’ Sauvignon Blanc – and the audience at the Masterclass loved it. We had many people at the end of the class come up and say it was the wine that blew them away the most!

Personally, I would have liked to show our 2010 vintage or a 2011 – as they are drinking so well right now. But perhaps the 2014 was the right choice as it was also selected by the team at King of Snake in Christchurch who has been offering this wine by the glass from their premium pour enomatic wine system, and now it’s also available by the bottle at the restaurant.

So, all in all I think ‘The Starlet’ really was the star of the show!”

I would agree with her on this  At the end of the masterclass, it’s time to meander one last time to taste what you might of missed and leave to make way for the public access at 6pm. As part of the ticket price for the public, you get to take home a Riedel glass in a nice package. If you are going to drink great wine. You might as well drink it in the finest glassware. 

As you go through your wine experience in life, events like this are great to improve your knowledge of what you think you know and what others think too. One thing I’ve learned over the years I’ve been doing this is it really does come down to character. In both the wine and its maker.

On a back note, Misha is hosting an event at the exclusive Otahuna Lodge on September 21st for a truly one-of-a-kind evening showcasing both the sensational wines of Misha's Vineyard and the talents of two of Canterbury's  operatic personalities. “Dazzling Divas & Diving Dining”.  Named by British Decanter Magazine as one of New Zealand’s Top 20 Wine Producers, Misha's Vineyard has earned a sterling reputation for its world-class Pinot Noir and aromatic white varietals. Andy and Misha Wilkinson, will be on-hand to explain the philosophy behind their winemaking and tell the story of their vineyard. 

Those that know Otahuna Lodge know that no evening at the Lodge would be complete without the mastery of Executive Chef Jimmy McIntyre who will design and present the evening's six (?) courses, focusing on the early spring harvest and matched to take full advantage of the complexity and texture of Misha's Vineyard wines.

Also, the amazing Leisa Falconer (Mezzo-Soprano) and Donna Alley (Soprano) will fill the rooms of Otahuna with song. Count on a memorable playlist including jazz standards from the Great American Songbook alongside solos by Puccini, Bizet, duets from Delibes Lakme and Offenbach’s Les Contes d'Hoffmann, and many more Operatic tit-bits.

Leisa and Donna are the icing on what looks like an event for the true Cantabrian Epicurean. What an opportunity to be part of such a great night. There is the opportunity for much more too so follow the link below to find out more.

Watch Cantabrian magazine closer for an article where I get up and close with the Otahuna Lodge crew very soon to dig into this event more and the iconic Cantabrian luxury retreat.

https://www.otahuna.co.nz/Special-Events-at-Otahuna-Lodge/Otahuna-Lodge-Events/Dazzling-Divas-Divine-Dining

Words by Nick Henare