WORDS: Nicholas Henare

Standing in the historical cellars with 13 degrees in summer and 12 degrees and 93% humidity, the perfect scenario for creating exceptional wine. Viewing some of the automation used with bottling by no means takes away from the atmosphere but also the necessity of keeping up with modern expectations. One and half million bottles on hand, you need to be logical. They are like basically an ala carte winery bottling when the wine is ready no sooner, no later. 20 years ago, they stepped back and did a swat analysis and planned a future for their wines. They have created the best mix of people doing what people need to do in conjunction with ABB robotics. They own vineyards in northern Rhone, Chateau le Pape and southern Rhone and they have got the combination just right. Tasting was always going to be the pinnacle of the experience, having wandered thought the cellars talking for well over an hour. 

I love France, people, wine and food and they take great pride in what they do well. The cellars are like visiting a Cathedral for me and Philippe is like a cardinal. We tried the best wines from the cellar. My notetaking had well ended by now as I was relishing the conversation I was having with Philippe and Julia and just taking in the experience that this was actually happening.  I got 2 glasses of Le Mouline in with the smorgasbord of what was on offer so the drive back to Lyon in the French countryside summer was very relaxed. Lying back thinking about the journey that led me here and how the experiences along the way. I’m so grateful to the people in my life who share my passion and the team that got me on the road to E Guigal. That’s what it’s about. 

Here’s to you my friends, drinking the story that is E Guigal.

Pink Lady is back open and the views + food are at their best yet. Two-levels of hot hospitality are what is making this the most sought after rooftop experience in Aotearoa. Michellin Star Chef Andrew Tranter is in the kitchen with tapas and drinks on tap. He has also created a sumptuous full menu for your palate to explore. Don't forget the custom cocktails on , including the eponymously named Pink Lady. 

By late night, the open space is transformed by the modern beats of a DJ that keep the crowd entertained. On Tuesdays, you can enjoy all you can eat pasta for $30. 

Located in the Muse Hotel, Pink Lady sits atop the city in an ideal location that is just on the cusp of coming out. Looking out the expansive windows offer 360 degree views and diners enjoy seeing a cityscape in motion with the stadium under construction and views to the hills and beyond. 

Visit Pink Lady today online and in person. https://www.pinkladyrooftop.co.nz/ 

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As an ex-Chef and a lifestyle writer, one of my favourite reads online is Conversation with a Chef. I just love food and its creators and getting the background on new inspirations across the ditch in Melbourne is fantastic. Jo Rittey is a freelance food writer and podcaster who dreams of a world where apostrophes are used correctly, and smiles are genuine. Originally from Otautahi Christchurch, she now scours the streets of Naarm, Melbourne collecting great stories and eating ALL the food. Shes a woman after my own heart and when she said she was coming to Christchurch we should do lunch. My anxiety went through the roof. Where do you take someone of this calibre to eat? I chose on Roca on Oxford Terrace.  

Jo and I sat and enjoyed some amazing dishes. Even though Roca are famous for their flatbreads the dishes we chose had a definite kiwi vibe. ROCA believes that New Zealand is home to some of the finest produce in the world. They source ingredients from local growers who are committed to being the very best and it shows.

We had Goats cheese croquettes, honey, rosemary and almonds. Akaroa salmon crudo, saffron vinaigrette and chilli. Confit duck leg, sour cherry relish, crème fraiche and piadina. Oysters three way. With two delicious cocktails that were the perfect accompaniment. 

Roca Manager Berenise Arriola and head Chef Ezequiel Munoz were on hand to give us some great service. Roca’s Cuisine is inspired by their love for the flavours of the Mediterranean. From Spain to the Middle East, ROCA is a contemporary tribute cooked with fire and smoke and our experience was brilliant. I could go on and on about how sublime each dish was but trust me 10/10. Now I had to cut to the chase.

Here are just a few on the questions I wanted answered from Conversation with a Chef.

What inspired you to be a food and beverage writer, and how did you get started?

There are a few strands to this. The first part is the French strand. I lived for a year in the south of France while I was studying at university. Having had something of a fraught relationship with food in my teens and early twenties, something about the French approach to food and eating really appealed to me. Particularly in the south where it’s more Mediterranean with lots of seasonal vegetables, and olive oil and salty little goats’ cheeses. I loved how friends would come together around the table for hours and they’d each have contributed a course and often they were made up of simple ingredients used well. 

In terms of writing, I have a PhD in Medieval French which isn’t helpful to the world but maybe it taught me some things about enquiry and fact checking and so on. It certainly taught me about perseverance. And in my final year of the PhD I got a job as a waitress at Misceo, discovered hospitality and loved it. I also met Nicola who was the head chef and became a good friend. Talking to her about food and hospo, I always had the idea that other people should hear this back story and that one day I’d do something called Conversation with a chef. 

My first foray into media was on radio. I had a show on Volcano Radio in Lyttelton on a Sunday night where I interviewed people who were passionate about their particular thing, whether that be dancing, beer brewing, art or jewellery making. 

Then I moved to Melbourne and started exploring. The opportunity came to volunteer for a community newspaper, The Northsider and they asked me what I’d like to do and I said I’d like to write about food and they made me Food Editor. I started a monthly column called, Conversation with a chef where I talked to chefs from the Northside and got the back story to the food they were putting up. The paper’s editor thought it was a great idea and suggested I make something more of it. At the same time, I used my writing to get into Concrete Playground and started reviewing restaurants. Then I shared an Uber with the then editor of Broadsheet who asked me to send some writing then I started writing for Broadsheet.  Originally Conversation with a chef was a Q& A and about 3 years ago, I started the podcast. 

Can you share a memorable experience or journey that shaped your perspective of food and writing?

Maybe that’s in the above? My most memorable dish was a cèpe/porcini omelette my friends made me in France. They’d foraged the mushrooms and they were rich and umami and the omelette tasted like the best kind of hug. 

How do you approach the culinary trends and how do you cover this with individual Chefs?

I actually don’t really go near culinary trends. If the chef wants to talk about trends, sure. I’m led by the chefs and most of those I talk to are all about good ingredients cooked well. 

What do you think separates a good chef from a great one?

Curiosity, a desire to always learn and discover, and a willingness to listen and respect those around them; I have so much admiration for Melbourne chefs like Dave Verheul, Mo Zhou and Peter Gunn (of whom two are kiwis) consistently bringing out incredible dishes combining surprising flavours and textures and using interesting techniques. 

What do you strive for in each article?

Whether it’s an article or conversation with a chef, I like to tell a story, or allow the story to be told. That means asking the right questions and listening carefully to be able to dig deeper. And I like the story to paint a picture and draw the reader in. 

How did you find your visit to Canterbury and your thoughts on Roca? 

It was great being back in Christchurch. The city is glorious and there are some great places to go for coffee, a drink and for dinner. New Regent Street is a nostalgic favourite that has really gone up several notches in terms of its edgy night offer. Gin Gin...what a star! I loved that Cellar Door has a nod to predecessor Annie’s while serving a phenomenal amount of beautifully curated wine flights with clever names and their terrine was amongst the best I’ve tasted.

Lunch at Roca was a highlight of this visit. My 3 hot takes for Roca are 1. Sit out on the balcony. With a view of the Avon and the cosy heaters, there’s no better spot on an autumn day. Once the sun dips, head straight for the huge Italian bar in the centre of the dining room. 2. Order a cocktail. They’re punchy and pretty. 3. Graze your way through the menu. It’s Mediterranean influenced made with local produce. Think confit duck leg with sour cherry relish, Akaroa salmon crudo with saffron vinaigrette and the Roca flatbread regulars can’t get enough of. 

What's been your biggest challenge and finally, what do you see the future looking like in restaurants?

My biggest challenge is avoiding hyperbole. 

To the second part of the question, I'm nervous about the present of restaurants. With the cost of living being what it is, people aren't eating out the same way as they used to. Food costs are high and obviously that is reflected in menus making it prohibitive to people. Restaurants are really in a hard place. In addition to that, there continue to be staff shortages. I was talking to a chef who said that lockdown made people take stock and reconsider being in stressful pressured situations and left the industry. 

My anxiety over taking such a well-respected critic out for lunch was over and now just a fond memory of a wonderful food experience. 

Thank you, Roca, and thank you Jo. I’m visiting Melbourne in June Jo, no pressure.

by Nick Henare

 Us Brits miss the “Pub Culture” of the UK and say how hard it is to find a good local here in NZ. But having found The Victoria Pub opposite Victoria Square, I can safely say I feel like I have found a bit of home. 

The Victoria is a modern take on a British Pub. We were greeted with subtle decor featuring parquet flooring and stained glass windows, feature lighting and beautifully upholstered booths. The warm wooden bar is begging to be leaned on as you ponder the rotating selection of hand-pulled guests ales and wines by the glass. 

But it is the food that we were here to try and as we took our seats our knowledgeable and professional servers took us through the all day menu with flair and warmth. It is quite a menu with everything ranging from ever-popular fish and chips to oysters and their take on the classic Ploughmans - the Victoria Platter. Our group needed some hot chips with curry sauce (a Northern classic) to help us make our choices. We were thrilled to see that The Victoria serve their chips with malt vinegar which brought back so many nostalgic memories for me. A genius move!

We ordered the Scotch Egg with Gentleman’s relish because I know how hard these are to get right and it would be a good test. We were told it would take 20 minutes as they made it from scratch and when it arrived it was perfect. Crispy on the outside, meaty with the egg, a delicious unctuous and jammy texture. A must try! The smoked fish pie was delicious comfort food at its best - big enough to share with a generous ratio of fish to creamy sauce and enough vegetables to make us feel righteous and healthy. When the bangers and mash emerged I was delighted. A generous serving of Cumberland sausages, mash, peas and a delicious gravy. We accompanied it with the roasted Brussel sprouts with honey mustard dressing which is a perfect combination that we highly recommend. We commented that none of us had picked up the salt or pepper during the whole meal and for me, as a previous restaurateur, this is a sign of a beautifully executed meal. 

I love to be surprised by a restaurant and The Victoria certainly did that. They have a new menu coming out shortly with all the old favourites and some new additions for the Winter and I feel another visit will be necessary. I have definitely found my new “local”.

WORDS

Sheena Hemens

IMAGES: SUPPLIED | THE VICTORIA